For anyone who intends on shaping African Blackwood – use metal working files and not rasps. When you push a rasp on blackwood you will hear a distinct “tink, tink, tink, tink” sound. Those are your rasp teeth being removed.
This is my grandfather's chisel, which my dad inherited sans handle. I decided to make a quickie out of some oak I had around, and it came out pretty well. I really need a lathe, though.
Note the lack of a ferrule. Carving a cylinder out of a block of wood was hard enough once. It means that this chisel, while fine for paring (hand pushing) is unsuitable for being hit with a mallet.
Incidentally, the reason I'm going for octagonal rather than some of the turned handles you see on some of those pages is pretty simple; I am presently lathe-less and turning a square block of wood into an octagonal block of wood is as easy as planing the corners.
This post is not about the Workmate.
I got home and set it up and wanted to go out to my (ha ha) back yard and try it out. I was stymied on the way out by the discovery that one of my exterior doors had managed to jam itself in an extremely firm way. Shoving led to opening the lock led to taking the lock apart led to finally hammering the pins out of the hinges, and I discovered that said door had managed to go out of true (i.e. flat and with all the sides perpendicular to each other) in every single way a piece of wood can warp. I was quite impressed.
So I took the door out back and shot it set it up on the Workmate and started looking at what to do about it. I got the Big Box of Planes out and decided that the cupping in the face, while obnoxious, was beyond my ability to really fix assuming the door was even solid. I was pretty sure it was solid because it weighed a fucking ton, but I wasn't totally sure what it made out of, and in any case that would have been a whole lot of work. I did figure I could do something about the sides being way out of whack and that it would solve my immediate problem, and started planing away.
That jointer, the #6 rustbucket? It's big and heavy and ugly and worth every penny.
Long story short, I have a functional exterior door again, significantly more experience planing things, a newfound affection for my #71 router plane, and a big-ass pile of wood shavings (foot inserted for scale). I'm calling it a qualified success because, hey, I have a door that opens and closes again. Qualified because the door is still out of true, causing issues, and the lock mechanism is all funky.
I'm sorry I ever impugned the quality of your steel, calling you a rustbucket. Because I just took possession of a #6 that apparently hung out underwater in some guy's shed for about thirty years, or something. I think the only reason the rust is only surface deep is because the other rust protected the rest of the iron. It is ... really something to behold. You are a marvel of survivability in contrast.
Graham
Edit: when I tried it a second time, it worked much better and faster, although it was a looser fit, right up until I attacked it with a jack plane trying to remove the bits that stuck out. If I'd glued it even that would have been fine. I've not mastered dovetailing by any means but I can do it now.
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Anyway, after regrinding I decided I wanted a good way to prove to myself that the chisel would be useful; accordingly I mortised an approx. 1" × 1" × 5/8" hole into the middle of a block of cheap pine, I think. It went quite smoothly and took about an hour or so, so I think those chisels are fit for use now.
I did say those chisels for a good reason; there are half a dozen or so left in the box that have been ground in utterly bizarre ways. It’s not enough that all the angles be ridiculously steep, the wrong side has to be ground or the like. At this point I’m not even confident enough as to what the tools’ original purpose was, let alone what they are to be used for now! I have, accordingly, left them be.